Version: 2008
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Water-cool your PC

Step 6:

Put water tubing in your PC


The CPU waterblock's connections use threaded fittings
The GPU waterblock's rely on tube clamps

The CPU waterblock's connections use threaded fittings (A), while the GPU waterblock's rely on tube clamps (B).

The kit provides a coil of silicone tubing you custom-cut. If you're using the graphics-card cooler, you'll need three lengths: one from the Reserator's outlet port to the CPU waterblock's inlet, one from the CPU waterblock's outlet to the GPU waterblock's inlet, and one from the GPU waterblock's outlet to the Reserator's inlet.

Measure carefully before cutting. You'll need to allow for extra tubing to avoid kinks and to place the Reserator conveniently. Cut the ends clean and square and attach them to the inlets one by one, triple-checking the connections and direction of flow. Before making each connection, slide the appropriate compression-fitting cap or tube clamp onto the hose. Then, work the tubing firmly onto its fitting. The CPU waterblock uses threaded compression fittings; screw the cap over the hose and fitting until snug. The GPU-waterblock connections use simple tube clamps; squeeze the clamp with pliers, slide it over the fitting joint, and release to secure it. The hoses entering and exiting the Reserator use snap-in "quick couplings" with valves that don't leak when detached. Fasten them to the hose ends with tube clamps.

Finally, somewhere outside the case, you'll need to sever the hose running between the Reserator's outlet and the CPU-waterblock's inlet to insert a flow indicator. This glass capsule shows whether coolant is flowing. Orient it correctly; the orange float inside needs to wiggle downstream. Attach the severed hose ends to the indicator using its compression fittings.

Tip
The Reserator must be level with or higher than your PC to avoid straining the motorized pump.



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